THE HOTEL

NYIT (New York Institute of Technology - my new masters) pays for their new hires to stay in the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Amman, a luxury hotel, very close to their campus. Saleh had a driver with a BMW ready at the airport and I was taken, along with my 4 suitcases, 1 carry on bag, 1 camera bag and 1 handbag all that weighed as though I had taken a fair quantity of gold bars from Wall Street. The hotel security was impressive, and they were tolerant of this American nervously dropping her iPod, camera bags, and other metal objects, all that went ting in the night or day, on the rubber belt going thru the x-ray machine. I tried to ignore the M-16 or whatever the gun was that was casually slung across the seated knees of a very good looking smiling, but indifferent soldier, and perhaps accidently sliding down his knees, then to the ground and shooting random bullets into my back. A woman in a very neat black long dress, and a white cloth across the forehead like the old nuns used to wear, and a black headscarf, did the final efficient probing of my luggage and purse. I passed and entered through the largest revolving door I have every seen. There before me was an enormous lobby, polished marble, plants, flowers, Persian rugs, rich mahogany, and deep red plush furniture. I thought I was in Saddam Hussein's palace! I was surrounded by gorgeous young men in black jackets with bronze name labels, who guided me through registration, negotiating me and my container ship of luggage up to my room. I used my fractured Arabic to greet and thank them, and their smiles were enough to light a small city for a year. I knew I would have a great time at this hotel! My room was impeccably decorated, spacious, comfortable. I have a great view of the enormous outdoor swimming pool, palm trees, gardens and a beautiful blue domed mosque nearby. The dinner was a special Ramadan banquet, with special foods to celebrate breaking the fast. Service was wonderful, and I ate everything in sight, much of which I had no idea what I was eating, but it was delicious! Large families were there celebrating. There was such contrasts: traditional embroidered dresses, headscarfs, colorful red and white checked headresses on white robed men, next to men and woman in the latest fashion; women with makeup, heels, coiffed hair. I can now see why the men want the women covered: they are all very gorgeous and sexy, with dark hair, flashing eyes, and definite attitudes.

The other new hire, Catherine, will arrive tomorrow. I put photos of my mother, and Bubbie, my mother-in-law, in my room. I felt this was all so wonderful because of them - they planned this for me from heaven! And, I have numerous wonderful news stations, CNN International, BBC, French, Italian, German and Spanish news. However, it turns out, my favorite station is Aljazeerah because it has the most interesting programs and in depth analysis. My internet connection works; there's a steam room, sauna, turkish bath, jaccuzzi and two pools . . . what more could a girl ask for?

MY ARRIVAL IN JORDAN

My trip flying business class on Royal Jordanian airlines was smooth, comfortable and luxurious. My seat was a cross between a massage and a bed. There was an adjustment for every centimeter of flesh. There was continuous food, all delicious, with extraordinary spices and textures. I thought the appetizer was the entire meal! The space for my seat that was the equivalent of a small studio apartment in the Village! The service was wonderful. I slept the entire trip blissfully, with the stewardness waking me for intermittent feedings. I noticed a distinguished gentleman enter the plane just before take-off, with bodyguards, and a continual stream of visitors to his seat, and attention from the crew. I thought he must be someone important. When we landed, he graciously offered to help me take down my heavy take-on luggage overhead, and offered to carry it off the plane for me. I thanked him, but told him it had rollers and I could manage it. I was met immediately by Saleh from NYIT, who looks like a young prince from the Arabian nights, in an impeccable striped navy business suit. He knew everyone at the airport, wisked me through customs, past the visa bureaucrats, and to the luggage, which all arrived in an amazingly short time. I spotted the VIP who had helped me, and asked Saleh who he was. Saleh took one look and said - ah - that is xxxxxxx, Minster of Tourism and head of Royal Jordanian Airlines!

I took that as a very good omen for my trip . . . and I was right! I have landed in a fairy tale, in a kingdom where my every wish is granted, everyone is friendly, where I feel like a celebrity, the weather is perfect, the food amazing, and the ambiance of Amman an aesthetic feast for the eyes.

How can this part of the world be on the edge of such violence and conflict? I am struck by the kindness, courtesy and hospitality of all whom I meet.