Sunday, December 2, 2007
Saturday, November 24, 2007
NYIT Trip to Jerash
On Nov. 24, 2007, NYIT-Amman students visited Jerash north of Amman in Jordan. Jerash, the ancient city of Gerasa, is an amazing complex of Hellenistic Greek, Roman, Nabatean, Byzantine and Islamic monuments. NYIT Art History students were able to see in reality what they study in their textbooks!
Jerash was developed by the Romans after they conquered the Levant in first century BC, although it had been already colonized by the Hellenistic Greek Alexander the Great in 332 BC. Due to its strategic geographic position in fertile lands with water, high on hills, it became very important. The Greek King Antiochus IV built a typical Greek city in 2c BC, with a stream dividing the city, however there are traces of Neolithic and earlier settlements on the site.
The Jewish historian Josephus mentions Jerash, where the treasures of Amman (then called Philadelphia) were safely kept in the Temple of Zeus. The town was later captured by the Jews under the high priest Alexander Jannaus, from 102- 76 BC. Then the city was captured by the Roman General Pompey in 63 BC. The city functioned independently under Pompey and joined the league of free cities known as the Decapolis, most within Jordan. It expanded and was prosperous, trading with Syria and the Nabataeans from Petra, who influenced the style of stone carving and architecture in the city.
The site represents a typical 1st c. Roman urban planned city, surrounded by stone walls and castles. There are paved streets, all connected by a main street or Cardo, with elaborate drainage and water systems beneath. The Cardo is lined with columns of Doric, Ionic and Corinthian capitals. Most of the imperial buildings come from 2nd c. BC. By the 3rd century Jerash was at the height of its prosperity, granted the status of a colony, a free city, and its citizens had rights of Roman citizens, a high standard of living and were exempt from taxation.
By the 4th century the growth of the Sassanian Kingdom in the east disrupted Rome's trade routes, and was followed by political, economic and religious disputes. Constantine resolved some, and introduced Christianity into the the region as the official religion of the Empire in 324. Many elaborate Byzantine style churches were constructed in Jerash, especially under Justinian, with elaborate mosaics and ancient pagan temples neglected and often their stones used for the churches.
In 646 Islam spread throughout the region, and Jerash no longer expanded, but shrunk to about a quarter of its previous size. Small buildings were built among the old structures, including an 8th century mosque. In the 12th c. William of Type said Jerash was then empty, and that the Temple of Artemis had been converted into a castle to fight the crusaders, however the whole town was captured by Baldwin II, crusader King of Jerusalem 1118-11131.
Jerash was lost, but then discovered by Seetzen in 1806, and became a settlement for many Jordanian families, especially the Circassians from Eastern Europe who took refuge there in 1878 during the period of Ottoman suppression.
Jerash still had Roman triumphal arches, a Roman forum, a Hippodrome, Gates, Temples, Theatres, the Cardo (colonnaded street), a Nympaeum with fountains, Baths, Churches and Mosques, for us to see.
And, Jerash has the best BBQ restaurants in Jordan, which is where we ended out trip. Going home was another adventure . . . the bus took a short cut, got lost on the steep, narrow mountain roads between olive plantations, goats, sheep, Bedouin tents, farms, and steep ravines on the side of the road. However, before the sunset, we found the highway, and returned safely to Amman.
Jerash was developed by the Romans after they conquered the Levant in first century BC, although it had been already colonized by the Hellenistic Greek Alexander the Great in 332 BC. Due to its strategic geographic position in fertile lands with water, high on hills, it became very important. The Greek King Antiochus IV built a typical Greek city in 2c BC, with a stream dividing the city, however there are traces of Neolithic and earlier settlements on the site.
The Jewish historian Josephus mentions Jerash, where the treasures of Amman (then called Philadelphia) were safely kept in the Temple of Zeus. The town was later captured by the Jews under the high priest Alexander Jannaus, from 102- 76 BC. Then the city was captured by the Roman General Pompey in 63 BC. The city functioned independently under Pompey and joined the league of free cities known as the Decapolis, most within Jordan. It expanded and was prosperous, trading with Syria and the Nabataeans from Petra, who influenced the style of stone carving and architecture in the city.
The site represents a typical 1st c. Roman urban planned city, surrounded by stone walls and castles. There are paved streets, all connected by a main street or Cardo, with elaborate drainage and water systems beneath. The Cardo is lined with columns of Doric, Ionic and Corinthian capitals. Most of the imperial buildings come from 2nd c. BC. By the 3rd century Jerash was at the height of its prosperity, granted the status of a colony, a free city, and its citizens had rights of Roman citizens, a high standard of living and were exempt from taxation.
By the 4th century the growth of the Sassanian Kingdom in the east disrupted Rome's trade routes, and was followed by political, economic and religious disputes. Constantine resolved some, and introduced Christianity into the the region as the official religion of the Empire in 324. Many elaborate Byzantine style churches were constructed in Jerash, especially under Justinian, with elaborate mosaics and ancient pagan temples neglected and often their stones used for the churches.
In 646 Islam spread throughout the region, and Jerash no longer expanded, but shrunk to about a quarter of its previous size. Small buildings were built among the old structures, including an 8th century mosque. In the 12th c. William of Type said Jerash was then empty, and that the Temple of Artemis had been converted into a castle to fight the crusaders, however the whole town was captured by Baldwin II, crusader King of Jerusalem 1118-11131.
Jerash was lost, but then discovered by Seetzen in 1806, and became a settlement for many Jordanian families, especially the Circassians from Eastern Europe who took refuge there in 1878 during the period of Ottoman suppression.
Jerash still had Roman triumphal arches, a Roman forum, a Hippodrome, Gates, Temples, Theatres, the Cardo (colonnaded street), a Nympaeum with fountains, Baths, Churches and Mosques, for us to see.
And, Jerash has the best BBQ restaurants in Jordan, which is where we ended out trip. Going home was another adventure . . . the bus took a short cut, got lost on the steep, narrow mountain roads between olive plantations, goats, sheep, Bedouin tents, farms, and steep ravines on the side of the road. However, before the sunset, we found the highway, and returned safely to Amman.
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
14 Nov. NYIT Student trip to The Citadel, Amman, Jordan
The Citadel (Jebel al-Qala'a) is on the highest hill in Amman (the city is on 7 hills, like Rome.) It dates back to Neolothic settlements, and is the site of ancient Rabbath-Ammon from the Bronze age. Surrounded by walls, it was rebuilt many times, during the Bronze, Iron, Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad periods.
The Roman Temple of Hercules has imposing pillars, once connected to the Forum, and was built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius (161-80 AD). A lookout platform was built with a great view to spot invading armies! The enormous 4' hand of Hercules greets the visitor to the National Museum of Archaeology on the Citadel, and is the only part of his statue that has been found to date. They are still looking for the rest of his body!
The largest standing building is the Umayyad Palace, 720 AD, which was a complex of royal and residential buildings, home to the ancient governor of Amman, however destroyed by an earthquake in 749 AD. An impressive large domed audience hall greets visitors to the royal palace. Shaped as a cross, it was built over a Byzantine church. A courtyard leads to a wide collonaded street, with many arches and Corinthian columns. North is the former governor's residence. The Umayyad Cistern is an enormous stone circular hole used as a reservoir that held 250,000 gllons of water, with a disc on the floor below that once held a tall pillar used to measure water for management and distribution; there are turkish baths, residences, Arab toilets, stone beds (once covered with soft mattresses) and even horse stables to be seen. It is a breathtaking site - and an art historian's dream! The guide was excellent - a Security Policeman who had been an archeology major in university - and also very handsome! The students really enjoyed the trip.
Most of the monuments were destroyed by earthquakes - and as I was posting this I read we had an earthquake in Amman last weel - but I didn't notice!
The Roman Temple of Hercules has imposing pillars, once connected to the Forum, and was built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius (161-80 AD). A lookout platform was built with a great view to spot invading armies! The enormous 4' hand of Hercules greets the visitor to the National Museum of Archaeology on the Citadel, and is the only part of his statue that has been found to date. They are still looking for the rest of his body!
The largest standing building is the Umayyad Palace, 720 AD, which was a complex of royal and residential buildings, home to the ancient governor of Amman, however destroyed by an earthquake in 749 AD. An impressive large domed audience hall greets visitors to the royal palace. Shaped as a cross, it was built over a Byzantine church. A courtyard leads to a wide collonaded street, with many arches and Corinthian columns. North is the former governor's residence. The Umayyad Cistern is an enormous stone circular hole used as a reservoir that held 250,000 gllons of water, with a disc on the floor below that once held a tall pillar used to measure water for management and distribution; there are turkish baths, residences, Arab toilets, stone beds (once covered with soft mattresses) and even horse stables to be seen. It is a breathtaking site - and an art historian's dream! The guide was excellent - a Security Policeman who had been an archeology major in university - and also very handsome! The students really enjoyed the trip.
Most of the monuments were destroyed by earthquakes - and as I was posting this I read we had an earthquake in Amman last weel - but I didn't notice!
Friday, September 28, 2007
THE HOTEL
NYIT (New York Institute of Technology - my new masters) pays for their new hires to stay in the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Amman, a luxury hotel, very close to their campus. Saleh had a driver with a BMW ready at the airport and I was taken, along with my 4 suitcases, 1 carry on bag, 1 camera bag and 1 handbag all that weighed as though I had taken a fair quantity of gold bars from Wall Street. The hotel security was impressive, and they were tolerant of this American nervously dropping her iPod, camera bags, and other metal objects, all that went ting in the night or day, on the rubber belt going thru the x-ray machine. I tried to ignore the M-16 or whatever the gun was that was casually slung across the seated knees of a very good looking smiling, but indifferent soldier, and perhaps accidently sliding down his knees, then to the ground and shooting random bullets into my back. A woman in a very neat black long dress, and a white cloth across the forehead like the old nuns used to wear, and a black headscarf, did the final efficient probing of my luggage and purse. I passed and entered through the largest revolving door I have every seen. There before me was an enormous lobby, polished marble, plants, flowers, Persian rugs, rich mahogany, and deep red plush furniture. I thought I was in Saddam Hussein's palace! I was surrounded by gorgeous young men in black jackets with bronze name labels, who guided me through registration, negotiating me and my container ship of luggage up to my room. I used my fractured Arabic to greet and thank them, and their smiles were enough to light a small city for a year. I knew I would have a great time at this hotel! My room was impeccably decorated, spacious, comfortable. I have a great view of the enormous outdoor swimming pool, palm trees, gardens and a beautiful blue domed mosque nearby. The dinner was a special Ramadan banquet, with special foods to celebrate breaking the fast. Service was wonderful, and I ate everything in sight, much of which I had no idea what I was eating, but it was delicious! Large families were there celebrating. There was such contrasts: traditional embroidered dresses, headscarfs, colorful red and white checked headresses on white robed men, next to men and woman in the latest fashion; women with makeup, heels, coiffed hair. I can now see why the men want the women covered: they are all very gorgeous and sexy, with dark hair, flashing eyes, and definite attitudes.
The other new hire, Catherine, will arrive tomorrow. I put photos of my mother, and Bubbie, my mother-in-law, in my room. I felt this was all so wonderful because of them - they planned this for me from heaven! And, I have numerous wonderful news stations, CNN International, BBC, French, Italian, German and Spanish news. However, it turns out, my favorite station is Aljazeerah because it has the most interesting programs and in depth analysis. My internet connection works; there's a steam room, sauna, turkish bath, jaccuzzi and two pools . . . what more could a girl ask for?
The other new hire, Catherine, will arrive tomorrow. I put photos of my mother, and Bubbie, my mother-in-law, in my room. I felt this was all so wonderful because of them - they planned this for me from heaven! And, I have numerous wonderful news stations, CNN International, BBC, French, Italian, German and Spanish news. However, it turns out, my favorite station is Aljazeerah because it has the most interesting programs and in depth analysis. My internet connection works; there's a steam room, sauna, turkish bath, jaccuzzi and two pools . . . what more could a girl ask for?
MY ARRIVAL IN JORDAN
My trip flying business class on Royal Jordanian airlines was smooth, comfortable and luxurious. My seat was a cross between a massage and a bed. There was an adjustment for every centimeter of flesh. There was continuous food, all delicious, with extraordinary spices and textures. I thought the appetizer was the entire meal! The space for my seat that was the equivalent of a small studio apartment in the Village! The service was wonderful. I slept the entire trip blissfully, with the stewardness waking me for intermittent feedings. I noticed a distinguished gentleman enter the plane just before take-off, with bodyguards, and a continual stream of visitors to his seat, and attention from the crew. I thought he must be someone important. When we landed, he graciously offered to help me take down my heavy take-on luggage overhead, and offered to carry it off the plane for me. I thanked him, but told him it had rollers and I could manage it. I was met immediately by Saleh from NYIT, who looks like a young prince from the Arabian nights, in an impeccable striped navy business suit. He knew everyone at the airport, wisked me through customs, past the visa bureaucrats, and to the luggage, which all arrived in an amazingly short time. I spotted the VIP who had helped me, and asked Saleh who he was. Saleh took one look and said - ah - that is xxxxxxx, Minster of Tourism and head of Royal Jordanian Airlines!
I took that as a very good omen for my trip . . . and I was right! I have landed in a fairy tale, in a kingdom where my every wish is granted, everyone is friendly, where I feel like a celebrity, the weather is perfect, the food amazing, and the ambiance of Amman an aesthetic feast for the eyes.
How can this part of the world be on the edge of such violence and conflict? I am struck by the kindness, courtesy and hospitality of all whom I meet.
I took that as a very good omen for my trip . . . and I was right! I have landed in a fairy tale, in a kingdom where my every wish is granted, everyone is friendly, where I feel like a celebrity, the weather is perfect, the food amazing, and the ambiance of Amman an aesthetic feast for the eyes.
How can this part of the world be on the edge of such violence and conflict? I am struck by the kindness, courtesy and hospitality of all whom I meet.
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